Some of you might remember this article by Dave Parker that he posted on the HO World Site several years back. Unfortunately that site is now gone... however, Dave has consented to let me post his article here on HOSlotcarz.com. If you're interested in building a trailer then click the read more link below.
OK, let’s build a trailer. Let me say up front that you won’t find any blueprints or measurements in this article… each trailer was built from scratch and I adjusted as I went. Styrene is so easy to work with you really don’t need to worry about exact measurements. So first, select a t-jet you want to use as a guide for size. Then, using a sheet of .010 styrene, cut out a template for the floor of the trailer that is long enough and wide enough to carry the car. I use the thin sheet for this as it is much easier to cut and make adjustments. You want the car to fit between the fender cutouts and also make sure the rear of the trailer extends past the rear bumper of the car so the tailgate will go all the way up. Figure 1 shows a shape I like to use, but here and throughout the process feel free to improvise. Figure 2 shows the template transferred to the thicker .040 sheet actually used as the trailer.
Once you have the trailer cut out, the rest is easy. The first thing I like to do is add a couple of rails under the trailer for rigidity and to use as a mounting point for the axles and wheels. Cut a couple of 1/8” square pieces that are the length of your trailer, and weld them to the bottom of the trailer and aligned along the inside edge of the cut-out. To ‘weld’ styrene, just hold the two pieces together and run a little liquid along the joint. In two or three seconds, you will have a completed weld. Easy! Next, I cut out a couple of strips of .040 board and batten styrene to use as the fenders. You can also use stock .020 sheets for this. To make the bends, I scribe the inside of the bend to remove a little material first. You will have to play with the styrene a bit to find a length that works for you. Once you have one good fender, use it as a template to make others. Trim the front and rear edges of the trailer cutout to match the angle of the fender for a flush fit, and trim any excess material on the inside edge so the bottom rail is flush with the edge, then weld the fender. The result should look like figures 3 and 4.
You could stop right now if you wanted to. Figures 9-11 show some additional details I added to this trailer. I used a small section of 3/64 rod, bent at an angle, as a hitch lock. I also inserted a small diameter rod into a tube, cut them at an angle, and welded them on the rear of each fender as lights. You will have to play with the cut a bit to get it to fit the angle of your rear fender. And finally I cut some small square and round rods, welded them to the front, added a very small piece of tube over the rod, and made myself a jacking point with a wheel.
Evergreen #217 – Rod and Tube Assortment (this has all various sizes used)
Evergreen #9008 – Sheet assortment (.010, .020, .040)
Evergreen #2080 – V-groove sheet (.020) (for optional bed liner)
Evergreen #252 – 1/8” square beams
Evergreen #4542 – Board and batten (optional for fenders)
Some Styrene welding liquids:
Ambroid Proweld, Plastruct Bondene, Tenax 7R, Testors Liquid Cement
(I like the Plastruct and Ambriod since they come with an applicator)
Wheels – JL pullback (or any other HO scale wheel)
Evergreen #221 – 3/64” rod (comes in #217 but you can always use more)
Evergreen #222 – 1/64” rod (same thing here)
Evergreen #267 – Channel (used for ramps and tire rails on the black/gold example)
Evergreen #8606 – 6x6 scale solid square (for trailer jack)
I would like to thank Dave Parker for allowing me to post his article. If you would like to download his original article then see download below.